I just read through some of that thread at AK again, and it appears there were three versions of the Model 14 crossover that Altec used during the few years 14's were in production (mainly cap. value changes in the different versions). So, I'd still like to see a schematic, but I guess the only way to be sure I'm matching old capacitors with new ones of the same value is to read the values off of the old caps (go figure!). I still could use some assistance from anyone who'd like to offer it. Here's the photo of the crossover (click to enlarge)
22

Ok, I've looked over the caps and tried to read values off of them (and photograph them).

Here's a close up of one of the caps

27

It says 470 uF on it. I asked my friend about the extremely high uF value of this cap and he said (more or less): "Don't replace this cap. A cap of that high of a value is going to be in the "shunt" / parallel circuit (which is around the series, not in the series). Therefore, the audio signal doesn't even pass through this capacitor and because of that it's value should still be at least close enough so as not to affect the sound. He told me to replace the smaller value capacitors in this particular crossover design as those caps are in the series (in line) and sound actually passes through them and is greatly affected by them if their values start to change (even a slight change can be bad in those caps)." Does this (Greek) make sense?

BTW, just noticed this discussion of the 470 cap on the AK thread. Quoting Morden2004 (page 6) "I pulled a cross-over and I see there is just a single electrolytic; a 470 uF 50 VDC standard cap. I think I'll replace them both with Polypropylene capacitors. Any thoughts on this?"

Quoting Richard C on page 6 "They are part of the power limiting protection circuit. Think of those as power supply filter caps that charge up "only" at high volume levels, from the voltage delivered to the loudspeaker. I doubt anything will be gained from changing these out.
Do you know how much 470 uf of polypropylene cap would cost AND how big it all would be?
Richard C. "

OK, here's the next two capacitors up close.

28

I could make out 2 uF on one of them and 10 uF on the other one. These are both capacitors right? (and could be replaced with Solen 400VDC "fast caps" with values of 10 uFand 2 uF)? It was very hard for me to read what was written on them other than the 10 uF and 2 uF--there's no chance they're anything other than capacitors is there (I'm the first to admit I'm a complete novice at replacing/identifying components like these)?

Next Two Photos (click to enlarge)

29

30

What is the rectangular "thing" in these two photos (please excuse the highly technical terminology I'm using) Not a capacitor, right? Leave it alone, right?

Last photo

31

What is the big black thing in this photo? Not a capacitor, right? Leave it alone, right? So, if I have figured this out correctly (hmmmm), I really just need to replace the 2 uF and 10uF capacitor in each Model 14 crossover (judging by my first photo that shows the whole crossover)? Can anyone chime in and let me know if I'm even close to being right here?

Lastly, the capacitors in my Model 19 crossovers are soldered to a "post". I'll be replacing all of the capacitors. It looks like it will be easy to "unsolder" them and solder in the new caps. If you look at the first photo in this post, the leads on the capacitors in the Model 14 crossovers come through from the other side of the circuit board. I'm not comfortable soldering directly to a circuit board. That being said, is it acceptable (although I know it's probably not the best way) to just clip the leads from the old caps while being sure to leave enough of the old leads to allow me to just solder the new caps to them (solder the leads of the new caps to the portion of the old leads I leave intact/attached to the board)? BTW, I'll be using 2% silver solder with tin and lead in it for the soldering--is that ok? Thanks again in advance for any help--the lives of innocent Altecs are at stake.....